It's situated in a truly idyllic beachside location, just a few hundred metres along the road leading from Fisherman's Village to Big Buddha. And from the road, all you can see is a discreet entrance bordered by artistic bamboo fencing and some Thai-style rooftops. But take the stepping stone pathway down into Ad Hoc and the vista will open up immediately, with a panoramic view across the whole of Bo Phut Bay to your left and the neighbouring island of Koh Pha- Ngan to your right.

Go in the daytime for lunch or drinks (they offer real Italian Lavazza coffee and provide an excellent range of sandwiches and snacks, including 100% ground-beef burgers – plus there's free WiFi here too) and you'll be looking at a turquoise-blue sea and endless skies, complete with palm trees swaying in the breeze and rustic Thai fishing boats traversing the scene. And as Ad Hoc is west-facing, come at sunset for cocktails and you'll be rewarded with a kaleidoscope of reds and yellows reflecting off the bay.

Ad Hoc takes advantage of its marvelous location to the full with a huge wooden decking terrace spread along most of its 60-metre beach frontage, and with seating for 60 out here you won't have to fight for just a few 'best' tables! There's also a large lounge/garden area at the end, complete with a banyan tree and natural rock wall, where you can chillout in the afternoons or after dinner. Should you prefer being indoors, behind you there's a lovely 2-storey wooden house which incorporates a smart open-sided interior seating area and bar on one side, with a huge state-of-the-art kitchen on the other.

The cuisine is predominantly Italian/Mediterranean and it's VERY good! I can personally recommend either the Tuna Tartar Salad, or the Smoked Duck & Hydroponic Rocket Salad with aged Balsamico as an ideal way to start your evening's gastronomic adventure, as both are light and tasty without being overpowering. And if you're a pasta-lover, Ad Hoc has an excellent selection including the wonderful Spaghetti alle Salsiccia – spaghetti with Italian sausage in white wine sauce with Parmesan cheese and pecorino. There's also plenty of choice for main course, including an outstanding Angus Tenderloin Steak, and the highly popular Australian Lamb Shoulder.

The desserts here are pretty special, too, with a particularly delicious Chocolate Fettuccine in white chocolate sauce with vanilla ice-cream. And the tasty Banana Flambé, which is flambéed in flamboyant style at your table, gives you a great floorshow into the bargain!

All the food here is simply prepared using the very best products (including gluten-free pasta and soy sauce), and although the dishes are presented most attractively, the emphasis is both quality and quantity.

And a special note must be made about the wines at Ad Hoc. Not only does it offer an excellent selection of New and Old World wines (with a predominance of Italian and French) but it has some real top-notch bottles available, too. The further good news being that the prices charged here are little more than cost.

There was nothing impromptu in the creation of Ad Hoc. But there's every reason for you to make an ad hoc decision and dine there tonight. They'll even come and pick you up if you're coming for dinner!

Ad Hoc is open from 3:00 pm Mondays to Saturdays, with the kitchen closing at 9:30 pm (closed Sundays).

For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7742 5380 or 0 813 707 170.