La Taverna is located right in the heart of Chaweng's lively nightlife area, just 10 metres down the lane which runs parallel to Soi Green Mango, off Chaweng Beach Road. And it's everything you'd expect from a real Italian restaurant. Framed prints of Italy on the spotless white walls, soft atmospheric lighting, the friendly chatter of satisfied diners and the appetizing aroma of Italian cooking wafting in from the kitchen. Plus one of the friendliest and most interesting hosts you'll ever meet, and that's the owner – Carlo Magello.

Carlo bought the 120-seater, air – conditioned La Taverna in June 2007, transforming it into one of Samui's finest Italian restaurants, and definitely the best traditional one. And a few years later, Carlo went one stage further by adding an elegant 'restaurant within a restaurant' (which is in an L-shape around the original one and can be accessed directly from the Beach Road) as an alternative for his diners, which, although serving food from the same menu, is totally different in style. It's intriguingly called X, and it certainly does have an exciting x-factor.

But let's get back to the food and what's on offer. Well, think of your favourite Italian dish and the chances are that it'll be there. But if you want to make doubly sure, you can always request a dish the day before and it will be prepared especially for you. Now that's what I call customer service!

Just try the Antipasti Rustico with its Parma ham, salami, Mortadella cheese, tomato, roast peppers, artichokes and melon, and you'll immediately be assured that it's the real thing here. Then go for the Spaghetti allo Scoglio with its fresh seafood and tomato sauce, or the Bucatini alla Amatriciana with bacon, onion, chili and tomato sauce to prove the point – you won't be sorry. My particular favourite is the Costolette di Agnello Australiano alla Griglia – grilled Australian lambs chops with a puree of potatoes and zucchini.

The most popular pizza here is the Capricciosa, with tomato, Mozzarella, ham, mushrooms, salami and olives, and I'm not surprised, it really is delicious. Especially so when enjoyed with a nice bottle of wine – Italian, of course.

And you can't eat traditional Italian fare without having a Tiramisu or a Panna Cotta for dessert. That and a freshly-brewed cup of espresso or cappuccino. And when Carlo spots you rounding off your meal he'll be over like a shot with a bottle of grappa. He wants you to feel comfortable, like you're eating at home – but with someone else doing the cooking!

The ever-present smiling waitresses are constantly revolving around the restaurant also keeping everybody happy. And I must say that an evening's dining at La Taverna really does feel more like being at a dinner party in a friend's house than a visit to a strange restaurant in a foreign country.

The restaurant opens at midday and closes when the last customer leaves.
For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7730 0421.