It’s evocative of times gone by. It’s a step into the glorious colonial past. And it’s a totally different dining experience from anywhere else on Samui, or even Thailand, come to that. Plus, on top of all this, the food served here is totally outstanding.

The restaurant’s name is Le Jaroen. But I’m going to start by telling you some things about The Scent Hotel, the resort in which it’s housed, because they’re integrally linked. Firstly, it’s located at the western end of Bang Rak (popularly known as Big Buddha Beach), next door to Ban Sabai Spa. And it’s very peaceful. And, secondly, it’s a member of the highly prestigious Relais et Chateaux association of the world’s finest boutique resorts (one of only four in Thailand).

From the road, all you can see is a 2-storey building spanning the entire 40-metre frontage. With a single wooden door, intriguingly closed. Karmakamet's slogan is 'Secret World', and to enter this other dimension you have to open this final barrier and step inside.

And when you do, you’re immediately transported back in time. A time of opulence and splendour enjoyed by our wealthy globetrotting colonial ancestors. The setting is a turn-of-the-century Oriental aromatic products trading company, and this becomes apparent as you enter the reception with its artistically arranged displays of aromatic oils, incense and the like. Everything here is authentically represented and the attention to detail is uncanny.

Although you’re here for dinner, do ask if you can view a room or two (you may just decide to switch accommodation mid-holiday once you’ve seen them!). There are three types to choose from: European Colonial Style, Chinese Colonial Style and Local Colonial Style. And each of these rooms is beautifully decorated in period design with the only things letting you know that you haven’t really gone through a time-warp being the present-day amenities.

The accommodation surrounds the volcanic-rock tiled swimming pool and Le Jaroen, the restaurant, is set just beyond on an expansive terrace overlooking the idyllic palm-fringed beach, which is floodlit at night.

Fragrant frangipani trees, hanging Chinese lanterns, heavy flagstone flooring and comfortable seating for just 30 diners complete the scene, and now you’re ready to enjoy an evening of fine-dining. Top-quality linen tablecloths and napkins, the most beautiful crockery – with lovely poems hand-painted on each plate, plus the finest glasses you’ll ever imbibe from in Thailand all combine to make what you eat and drink here a most pleasurable dining experience. And at this point I’ve reached the bit you’ve all been waiting for – the food.

“…. and it’s a member of the highly prestigious
Relais et Chateaux association.”

Well, it’s French-influenced and Asian cuisine (not fusion) and it really is superb. And starters just don’t come any better than either of my two personal recommendations: the Avocado & Smoked Salmon Mousse with prawn salad and fresh tomato sauce; and the crispy fresh Le Jaroen Rolls with crab meat, vegetables and prawns served with plum sauce and pickled cucumber.

Likewise, the main courses are excellent but if pushed to recommend just two, they’d have to be the Roasted Sea Bass with tomato & courgette confit onion puree and mustard-curcuma sauce, and the Roasted Lamb Fillet with corn fakes gremolata, mashed potato au beurre and rocket salad with Xeres vinegar caramel.

And there’s a tempting selection of desserts, including a highly decadent Choc-orange – a chocolate biscuit with chocolate mousse, orange marmalade and chocolate glacage, and a decidedly tropical Coconut Delight – coconut dacquoise, raspberry mousse and coconut crème brûlée.

The true gourmets (and gourmands!) amongst you will be pleased to note that Le Jaroen also offers 3- and 5-course degustation menus where you can immerse yourselves in dish upon dish of culinary delights of scallops, foie gras, veal, salmon and other favourite treats.

Le Jaroen is one of those special places that your mind keeps taking you back to, long after you’ve gone. Maybe that’s because of the unhurried elegance of ‘times gone by’ that’s evoked there. Possibly, it’s the idyllic location. But probably it’s because of the outrageously tasty food in combination with the above. 

Le Jaroen is open from 7:30 - 10:00 am for breakfast, 11:30 am - 3:00 pm for lunch, and from 6:00 - 10:00 pm (kitchen) for dinner and is reservation-only.
For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7796 2198.