It’s evocative of times gone by. It’s a step into the glorious colonial past. And it’s a totally different dining experience from anywhere else on Samui, or even Thailand, come to that. Plus, on top of all this, the food served here is totally outstanding.

The restaurant’s name is Le Jaroen. But I’m going to start by telling you some things about The Scent Hotel, the resort in which it’s housed, because they’re integrally linked. Firstly, it’s located at the western end of Bang Rak (popularly known as Big Buddha Beach), next door to Ban Sabai Spa. And it’s very peaceful. And, secondly, it’s a member of the highly prestigious Relais et Chateaux association of the world’s finest boutique resorts (one of only four in Thailand).

From the road, all you can see is a 2-storey building spanning the entire 40-metre frontage. With a single wooden door, intriguingly closed. Karmakamet's slogan is 'Secret World', and to enter this other dimension you have to open this final barrier and step inside.

And when you do, you’re immediately transported back in time. A time of opulence and splendour enjoyed by our wealthy globetrotting colonial ancestors. The setting is a turn-of-the-century Oriental aromatic products trading company, and this becomes apparent as you enter the reception with its artistically arranged displays of aromatic oils, incense and the like. Everything here is authentically represented and the attention to detail is uncanny.

Although you’re here for dinner, do ask if you can view a room or two (you may just decide to switch accommodation mid-holiday once you’ve seen them!). There are three types to choose from: European Colonial Style, Chinese Colonial Style and Local Colonial Style. And each of these rooms is beautifully decorated in period design with the only things letting you know that you haven’t really gone through a time-warp being the present-day amenities.

The accommodation surrounds the volcanic-rock tiled swimming pool and Le Jaroen, the restaurant, is set just beyond on an expansive terrace overlooking the idyllic palm-fringed beach, which is floodlit at night.

Fragrant frangipani trees, hanging Chinese lanterns, heavy flagstone flooring and comfortable seating for just 30 diners complete the scene, and now you're ready to enjoy an evening of fine-dining. And that's courtesy of Executive Chef, Khun Jutamas Theantae.

“…. and it’s a member of the highly prestigious
Relais et Chateaux association.”

At Le Jaroen, Chef Jutamas has created a European-with-an-Asian-twist cuisine that really is superb. And starters just don't come any better than either of my two personal recommendations: the Foie Gras truffle Miso Soup; and the Figs - Parma Ham Terrine with iceberg lettuce, an explosion of herbs and lemon-mustard vinaigrette.

Likewise, the main courses are excellent but if pushed to recommend just two, they'd have to be the Grilled Mackerel - Honey Glaze with monkfish liver pate and eggplant caviar, and the Quail with Spinach-stuffed Foie Gras kaffir lime oil and wild rice.

And there's a tempting selection of desserts, including a marvelous Clove Banana - a clove-infused whole banana with creme Anglaise, black pepper chocolate sauce, caramel nuts squares and egg-white crumbles, and a delicious Savarin Age Rum with vanilla ice-cream.

Le Jaroen is one of those special places that your mind keeps taking you back to, long after you've gone. Maybe that's because of the unhurried elegance of 'times gone by' that's evoked there. Possibly, it's the idyllic location. But probably it's because of the outrageously tasty food in combination with the above.

Le Jaroen is open from 7:30 - 10:00 am for breakfast, 11:30 am - 2:30 pm for lunch, and from 6:00 - 10:00 pm (kitchen) for dinner and is reservation only.

(Plus there's a special 'Grand Chef's Private Dining Table' available from 6:00 - 10:00 pm for 8-12 persons which is also by reservation only). For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7796 2198.