Where to start? Do I begin by telling you about the out-of-this-world views enjoyed from this resort? Maybe I should lead off about the ‘perfect’ food straight away? Or, perhaps, I ought to provide you with a full description of the mind-blowing restaurant itself? Such are the problems of a writer when trying to put into mere words the breathtaking magnificence of a restaurant like Pla Pla at a world-class hotel such as Four Seasons Resort.

And this is definitely a place where you’ll want to take your time. In fact, it’s the sort of place that will automatically make you want to slow down and enjoy the finer things in life. And these things include absolute peace and quiet, a totally ‘back to nature’ feel, the best service you could possibly imagine and amenities you could only dream of. I’d certainly recommend coming in daylight and spending a complete evening here in order to savour the whole ‘Four Seasons’ experience without rushing.

Although it’s about a 25-minute drive from Chaweng, it’s very easy to find, being on the ring-road at the very top of the hill on the right at the northwestern tip of the island. You’d think the views from the road couldn’t get better – until you make your way even further up Four Seasons’ private entrance lane and enter the stand-alone lobby sala that’s perched at the apex of the resort’s massive grounds some 800 feet above sea-level. And although the reception staff will be trying to assist you, you’ll find yourself ignoring them and walking to the edge to take in the unparalleled panoramic views of the sloping jungly hillsides and majestic Gulf of Siam beyond.

Pla Pla restaurant is right down on the beach. You could walk there but it’s a fair way and I’d suggest hopping on one of the resort’s ever-ready chauffeur-driven buggies and stopping off at their other restaurant, Lan Tania, en-route. Things are slightly more formal here, although the relaxed atmosphere at Four Seasons in general is still all-pervading, and you may wish to dine there. They serve great Thai and Italian cuisine at Lan Tania but, on this occasion, we’re only stopping for a cocktail in the lounge area to soak up the amazing views in total comfort and style. And finding a better place to do this, especially at sunset with the colourful reflections of the sky in the water creating such a magical experience, would be practically impossible.

Back on the buggy again and you’ll be glided silently down and along winding pathways through a wonderland of lush tropical gardens where you’ll spot the gabled gateways of some of the 60 pool-villas that are hidden amongst the foliage. And you’ll eventually arrive at the tall freestanding gabled entrance to Pla Pla where your heart will miss a beat yet again as you go through and take in the wonder of the scene beyond.

“And as darkness descends, Pla Pla takes on a magical transformation.”

Spanning out in front of you is the most idyllic private cove you could ever imagine, complete with tall swaying palm trees, a white sandy beach, turquoise-blue waters and hardly a soul in sight. Pla Pla is to the right in all its resplendent glory with granite flagstones, thatched roofs, expansive terraces and super-comfy seating. And if you come in the afternoon for lunch, or are just a bit early for dinner, you’re welcome to spread yourself out on the daybeds and soak up this unique ‘castaway’ atmosphere.

As darkness descends, flaming torches and huge cauldrons of fire are lit around the restaurant and Pla Pla takes on a magical transformation. And as you’re sitting there with your menu in front of you the only sounds you’ll hear are the rhythmic waves lapping along the shore, the chirping of the crickets in the jungle and the torches crackling in the balmy night air.

Onto the food, and it is as brilliant as you’d expect! The main concept is a ‘grill’ but with an excellent variety of other dishes alongside. Here are some recommendations. For appetizers, there’s the refreshing Tuna Tartar with wasabi mayonnaise and a Bloody Mary granité, and the ever-popular Tomato, Mussel and Saffron Soup. And the main course includes many recommendable items from the char-grill, including the delicious Roasted Mackerel with chorizo-tomato salad and Samui calamari, and the succulent Wagyu Rib-Eye or Whole Pomfret with side dishes to share. And for dessert, again there are many options, including the Vanilla Savarin with pomelo sorbet and tropical fruits, and the Honey-Yoghurt Cheesecake with lychee and pistachio.

Before rushing off after your meal you’ll be well advised to stop at Pla Pla’s adjacent beach bar for a final nightcap. There’s absolutely no way that an evening here should be hurried and when you experience it yourselves you’ll know exactly what I mean!

Pla Pla is open from 11:00 am withthe dinner menu available from6:00-10:00 pm.For reservations and further information, telephone0 7724 3075.