OK. They've got a point. Pessimists always say it's best to expect the worst, so you won't be disappointed. But at The Bre-Eze restaurant, go ahead; you can safely be an optimist and expect the best. Because that's exactly what you'll get in this stunning beachside restaurant.

It's part of the lovely Fair House Villas & Spa (formerly called Ban Laem Sai Beach Resort & Spa) in Maenam, and, although it's not on the ring-road itself, it is easy to get to. As you're coming from Chaweng towards Maenam, just take the second concrete road on the right after the sharp bend with Zazen Boutique Beach Resort on the corner. Follow this road to the very end and you'll soon reach the resort's impressive entrance.

The staff here couldn't be more charming, and someone will immediately arrange for you to be silently taken beachside to The Bre-Eze in an electric buggy, where the adventure continues.

It's spacious here, and everything's spread out along the expansive beachfront. Choose to sit under cover of the massive teak-pillared Thai roof, on the open terrace under the stars, or on the sandy lower level; the choice is yours. But wherever you are, you'll be next to the coconut palm trees swaying across the gently lapping ocean. And being at the very top of Maenam Bay means that as you look out to sea, you'll see the many coloured twinkling lights of various other resorts reflecting on the water.

Terra-cotta flooring, subtle lighting, widely-spaced seating, comfortable chairs (it's surprising how many top restaurants don't have them), total tranquility, and highly-professional friendly staff all contribute in giving The Bre-Eze that elusive 'atmosphere' which many places strive desperately to create, and fail miserably in the process.

Just glancing at the menu gives you that warm feeling of expectation when you see that there are so many choices here, and that choosing is going to be a difficult task. There's an excellent selection of seafood, International, and Thai cuisine, so whatever your preferences are, there's sure to be something that'll take your eye.

If you want to experience the local cuisine, cooked exquisitely, then here Location in Thai: are some worthy recommendations. For an appetizer, do try The Bre-Eze Sai Thard Thong, which is a collection of assorted snacks comprising: sautéed minced chicken with green pea, water chestnut and carrot; deep fried taro with minced shrimp and coconut; deep fried minced shrimp with green pea wrapped with egg net; and deep fried chicken wrapped with pandanus leaf. And follow that with the classic main course dish - Pla Krapong Sam Ros - which is a delicious deep fried white snapper with trio sauce. Staying with Thai for dessert, the Boloy Sam See - a warm homemade taro, pandanus and pumpkin dumplings, is an excellent example of this cuisine.

"... and there's an excellent selection of seafood,
International, and Thai cuisine."

Decide to choose from the International menu and there are some absolute winners; too many to list all the recommendable ones, but here are a few. The appetizer, Smoked Salmon with Dill is a home marinated and smoked salmon with dill mustard sauce and a potato pancake, and mustn't be missed. And if you're a meat lover, then the main course Lamb Cutlet Provençal - roast lamb chopped with herbs on rosemary-seasoned gravy served with butter vegetables and potatoes will more than keep you happy. Finish off with the Young Coconut Milk Cream Caramel - a classic caramel custard topped with young coconut, for dessert, and you'll find a new favourite.

And all this is organised by The Bre-Eze's highly-prized Executive Chef - Khun Santi Kittikhunphong. He's an expert in Thai, Chinese, French, Italian and Korean cuisine, having worked in many prestigious restaurants around the world during a very successful 35-year career. And these places include Le Banyan (French restaurant) in Bangkok and, most recently, the InterContinental Hotels in Seoul, South Korea. You won't find a more experienced chef on Samui, and his excellent cooking skills are a testament to that.

Should you enjoy live music, then visit on a Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday. These are the nights that the serenading Filipino duo - Julia & Freddie - performs between 7 and 10 pm. And they are as polished as entertainment comes, adding yet another special ingredient to The Bre-Eze's unique atmosphere.

For a special night of fine dining, away from the crowds and in such a lovely location, finding a better restaurant than The Bre-Eze isn't easy - and I'm an optimist! 

The restaurant is open for dinner from 6:00 pm, with the kitchen closing at 11:00 pm. For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7742 9000.