You’re right. There are thousands of Thai restaurants on Samui. And, yes, you’re spot-on again. So many of them serve absolutely delicious food. But when it comes to superb décor, exceptionally professional staff and wonderful cuisine, the list shortens dramatically. And Tom Yam Thai fits into this diminutive category perfectly, for many reasons …

Take the restaurant building itself. Although part of the plush Kandaburi Resort (at the northern end of Chaweng Beach, between The Briza and Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort) it’s completely ‘stand-alone’ on the opposite side of the road, next to its Mediterranean cuisine sister restaurant – Kandalina.

And as soon as you enter the fabulous split-level 80-seat Tom Yam Thai restaurant, you’ll realise that this is somewhere very special. The overall colour scheme is purple and gold; royal colours which befit a place of this style. Floor-to-ceiling windows give Tom Yam Thai an open, airy feel and the artistic use of wood carved into Thai archways create a unique atmosphere of Oriental opulence and splendour. And this Thai elegance is reinforced by the staff uniforms; all individually tailored in satin.

But don’t think that all this refinement means that Tom Yam Thai is sterile and that the staff are aloof. Far from it. There couldn’t be a friendlier restaurant manager there, who takes great pride in ensuring that you and your party are totally looked after. And his cheerful professionalism is echoed by everyone else there. Nothing is too much trouble.

With the restaurant itself being so special, the food should be too. Which it certainly is. And it all starts with a complimentary Thai appetiser called Mieng Kana. Eating it is fun, too, as you make your own parcels of young kale-leaf wrapped around a combination of diced limes, chili, red onions, diced ginger, cooked shrimps, peanuts and toasted coconut with a sweet shrimp paste and tamarind sauce, which you simply pop into your mouth. It’s delicious and should be tried.

Tom Yam Thai offers some amazing set meals for two which are highly recommended (incredibly low-priced, they range from 1,000 – 1,200 baht), but space here is too limited to list the dishes included so here are some other recommendations from the à la carte menu, starting with appetizers: Thod Man Leb Krut – deep fried shrimps with chrysanthemum leaves in a curried batter, served with a sweet dip; and Pra Pla Salmon – a rich combination of seared fresh salmon with fresh lemongrass, mint leaves, lime juice and a touch of fish sauce and chilies.

“… and with the restaurant itself being so special,the food should be too. Which it certainly is.”

There’s a tasty Thai salad called Yam Talay, which is a combination of local seafood including shrimps, squid, fish, mussels with sliced onions, tomato, spring onion, coriander and bound with a lime, chili and fish sauce dressing. And the amazing Tom Kha Gai – a fresh coconut milk soup, combined with a touch of lemongrass, young white ginger, coriander root, fresh tomatoes and mushrooms, and not forgetting the star of the dish – succulent chicken.

As for the main dishes (Thais don’t really have separate courses), both the Masaman See Klong Moo – a traditional Southern Thailand curry with pork spare ribs braised in coconut milk, cardamom seeds, cloves, cinnamon bark, roasted peanuts, shallots, combined with tamarind juice, and the Pla Kao Rad Prik – a whole grouper deep-fried and topped with a garlic, chili and tamarind sauce, will make you realise how excellent the cuisine here really is.

And you can top it all off with a local Thai dessert, ice-cream with fruit salad, or a platter of assorted seasonal fruits. There’s an excellent choice of both New and Old World wines here, too, which you can select yourself from the walk-in wine cellar.

Tom Yam Thai is that rare breed of Thai restaurant which manages to capture the authentic traditional characteristics of this beautiful country but in a contemporary setting. And for that reason, amongst many others, it should be experienced.

Tom Yam Thai is open from 6:30 pm till late (kitchen closes at 10:30 pm). For further details and reservations,please telephone0 7742 8888, ext.5.