Think Rio de Janeiro. Imagine carnival. Now conjure up a picture of a smart contemporary-styled Brazilian barbecue restaurant. And if you combine all these images, what have you got? The answer is Zico's.

This restaurant's on the southern section Chaweng Beach Road, opposite Centara Grand Beach Resort Samui (its parent company), and is a quite magnificent structure in itself. Huge stone pillars, tall leafy trees and a grand entrance dominate the 50-metre façade. And as you approach you'll hear the rhythmic samba beat spilling out onto the street by way of enticement; which it certainly does.

Choose to dine inside the completely air-conditioned 60-seat interior with its novel floor-paneled lighting, or in the open-air 45-seat section under the stars. But, wherever you sit, you'll be on super-comfortable chairs in plenty of space (no bumping into other diners here!).

And the first thing you'll be invited to do by your waitress is to help yourself to the super-fresh 50-item salad bar. There are all manner of sauces and dips to tuck into, too. And, whilst you're on your feet, do take a look in the well-stocked walk-in wine cellar where you can make an unhurried choice of a favourite bottle.

Back at the table you'll notice that in front of each diner there's a small disc - green on one side and red on the other. And the reason for this additional piece of tableware becomes apparent very quickly as roving passadors start passing. Each one presenting a different meat or fish on a long skewer and stopping at you if you have the green side of the disc showing (and pass you by if the red side's up). And an endless stream of beef, lamb, pork, chicken, duck, salmon, king prawns and a whole lot more comes around throughout the evening. Flip to red for a break and back to green when you're ready for more.

And alongside the meats you'll be served with your choice of potatoes and other vegetables (they serve a marvelous ratatouille here!). All this is included in the price but there's a separate dessert menu, too, should some of you still want more! Amongst a large selection of ice-cream sundaes and all manner of other goodies is the dessert to beat all desserts. And that's the delicious Brasilectro Dessert Degustation, comprising: passion-fruit mousse, walnut meringue blueberry gateau, Zico's fresh coconut crème brûlée and vanilla sherbet.

"... and two gorgeous Brazilian dancers appear in their feathers,
high heels, and bikinis (plus very little else!)."

Thanks to the friendly staff and the Latin music playing, the atmosphere and mood is already upbeat. But it rises to another level entirely when the sound goes up and two gorgeous Brazilian dancers appear in their feathers, high heels, and bikinis (plus very little else!) and dance away on the central stage. How they manage to move at four beats per second beats me but the effect's both electrifying and mesmerising. And when they've finished their set, they're straight into the audience for individual photos - which is entertainment in itself! (They perform three sets a night, starting at approximately 8, 9 and 10 pm. respectively.)

One of the great things about Zico's is that when you've finished eating you don't have to relocate to carry on the evening's revelry. Take the few steps up at the right-hand side of the restaurant and you're in one of the classiest lounge/bars on Samui. Here, there're comfortable sofas, several plasma-TVs and an attractive central bar where you can perch yourself and continue enjoying a combination of up-beat Latin and sultry Jazz.

It doesn't have to be a special occasion to dine at Zico's, but many families, honeymooners and groups do choose this restaurant to celebrate particular events. And I can fully understand why.

Zico's is definitely a cut above most on the island. Especially when you're looking for somewhere that's exciting, has great food, is terrific value-for-money, and gives you that reassuring feeling of being somewhere special.

The restaurant is open from 6:30 pm with the kitchen closing at 10:30 pm. The bar is open from 5:00 pm until 1:00 am. For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7723 1560.